Diamond cut: Modern

Diamond cut: Modern

Modern cuts  |  Antique cuts   |   Side stones  

Emerald Cut

The supreme elegance of an emerald cut cannot be disputed. Its clean lines come from step-cutting or parallel line facets. It is always cut with blocked corners and is usually cut to a rectangular outline, less common are square emerald cuts that often are misrepresented as Asscher cuts.

Emerald cut diamond by leon mege

An emerald cut with uncut corners is called a baguette. The Emerald cut is the only common step-cut diamond, most often step cut faceting is found on side stones. Because step cut faceting makes inclusions more visible to the unaided eye, it is recommended to consider a VS1 clarity or better.

The length-to-width ratio is an important factor for an emerald-cut diamond. It's a matter of personal taste but most people prefer a 1.4-1.5 ratio. Emerald-cut diamonds with 1.3-1.4 length-to-width ratios are the most pleasing to an eye when they set in a solitaire or in a halo.

A well-balanced three-stone ring design usually calls for more elongated stones, those in the 1.4-1.6 range. For those who slept through the math class in middle school: the stones ratio is calculated by dividing its length by its width. An emerald cut is loved by purists and looks especially elegant in a conservative platinum mounting.

Modern cushion

The modern cushion cut usually identified on the GIA report as "Cushion modified" is a radiant cut that has its sides and corners rounded Classified by GIA as "cushion modified" or "cushion brilliant" the "modern" cushion cut is essentially a radiant cut with rounded corners.

Modern Cushion Diamond

The sides can be rounded or left straight. The outline is identical to the classic cushion diamond but the faceting is very different. The stones are hard to distinguish from a radiant cut when they are held with prongs. There is no such thing as the "ideal cushion cut". The "Ideal cushion cut" is a myth, much like the Yeti, or his North American cousin, the Sasquatch.

Anyone pronouncing a particular cushion to be "ideal" can give the Nazi Minister of Propaganda Joseph Goebbels a run for his money. Modern cushions are often afflicted by excessive brilliance called the "crushed ice" look, the fractured brilliance without contrast.

The small facets and their arrangements the reason behind the stone's redundant amount of minute reflections. Four mains bulges found on a modified cushion cut pavilion could be a serious obstacle for certain styles of setting.

Radiant Cut

The radiant- and emerald-cuts share the same outline - a rectangular shape with clipped corners, but each of the two has own, distinct type of faceting. There are more differences than commonalities between an elegant emerald cut and delightful but crass radiant.

An emerald cut is a step cut, it has rectangular- or trapezoid-shaped facets running in parallel steps to each other, while a radiant cut is a brilliant-cut with its kite- and triangular-shaped facets radiating from the center.

Radiant cut

An emerald cut exerts a sophisticated elegance by breaking light into a mysterious rainbow of spectral colors called "fire", while a radiant cut has less fire, but a lot of dizzy sparkles brought in by its boundless brilliance, similar to the brilliance of a princess cut. The radiant cut has one obscure specialty - it intensifies a diamond color.

Almost all fancy colored diamonds are cut into radiants for that reason. For fancy colored diamonds, this is a case when too much of a bad news is a good news. Fancy colored radiant diamond is a very good and very economical choice.

Round Diamond

The round brilliant cut is often synonymous with the very word "diamond." In a world where diamonds are a commodity, the bestseller is always the one that appeals to most people. The most versatile, non-engaging, and least imaginative is declared the winner. The Round Brilliant is the diamond equivalent of plain vanilla.

Round diamond

Because of their bland look, round diamonds do not threaten the imagination of the average, esthetically challenged consumer. A modern round brilliant has a total of 58 facets, 33 on the top and 25 on the bottom. Modern stones usually lack a facet on the diamond’s point, which is called a “culet.”

In the early 1900’s, a rat race to invent the “perfect” diamond cut was fueled by the flood of South African diamonds into Europe. Production speed took a priority over the yield from rough, and from that time forward the round became the most common diamond shape.

A round brilliant possesses the 8th order of rotational symmetry, so faceting a round stone is very easy to automate. It is also very convenient for sorting, classification, standardization, and most of all - mechanized production.

Marcel Tolkowsky, the “Father” of a modern diamond, was a Polish engineer who calculated and published, as part of his Ph.D. thesis, specifications of the new “American Standard” diamond cut.

Using proprietary mathematical formulas that no one could neither understand nor repudiate, he came up with what is widely considered to be a balanced approach to a diamond’s brilliance and fire.

Princess Cut

The princess cut is a modern, square, sometimes rectangular, brilliant-cut stone with a relatively large table and low crown. This is the shape of choice for those who cherish the crushed ice appearance in a diamond.

The Princess was developed in Israel in 1979 and became wildly popular at shopping malls around the world thanks to its relatively cheap price. The reason behind it is the high yield from the rough during the cutting.

Princess cut

The three developers of the Princess shape – Yigal Perlman, Betzalel Ambar, and Israel Itzkowitz – sought to create a diamond that was both beautiful and economic, they succeeded only. The corners of a princess cut are extremely vulnerable and must be protected by sturdy prongs.

Pear Shape

The pear shape is a beautiful, feminine diamond shape with a rounded end on one side and a tapering point at the other. It is lovely as the center stone. As with many fancy shapes, the length-to-width ratio is usually within 1.5 ratios. The shape of the stone should resemble a teardrop with natural curves to look elegant.

Pear cut diamond

Properly proportioned pear shape diamonds are gorgeous. Chubby pear shapes are outright ugly. Elongated pears are pretty but tend to be fragile. Mr. Megé personally loves elongated pear-shaped diamonds for earrings, pendants, or a pair of drop earrings.

Poorly cut pears commonly show the BOW-TIE effect. The Pear-shaped diamond is also Mr. Megé's favorite choice of side options for a round diamond. The asymmetrical shape should be considered when setting a pear cut, which looks beautiful as a solitaire, or with side stones, especially smaller pear-cut stones or baguettes.

A pear-shaped diamond could be safely mounted in a five or three-prong setting. A V-prong is common but it is not necessary to secure the point. A single claw prong is a better option.

Oval Shape

The oval diamond has a lot of brilliance similar to a round diamond. An oval cut is beautiful in a ring, accentuating slender fingers and making larger knuckles less visible.

Oval Diamond

Claimed to have been created by Lazare Kaplan in the late 1950s, the oval brilliant cut has an elliptical shape and brilliant style faceting. Being upset that too many marquise diamonds were chipped by diamond setters and left laying to waste away in his strongbox, he decided to round off the broken tips.

These diamonds were initially sneered at by the public. They viewed the first ovals as "Roval" traditional cushions. However, later it became accepted as the leading cut used in necklaces.

Marquise Cut

An elongated shape with pointed ends. Sometimes called "Navette" diamond. An old wife's tale attributes the inspiration for cutting the first marquise-shaped diamond to the suggestive smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. It was said to be commissioned by Louis XIV, who wanted a diamond to match it.

Marquise cut

Marquise diamonds are best used as accent stones in earrings and necklaces. A marquise diamond longer than the span of a regular female finger will look gorgeous set East-West (across the finger).

A very large marquise diamond (larger than a 5 carat) is indeed as beautiful as a solitaire. A long finger seems to stretch even longer with the stone. Short fingers will not benefit from this cut. Smaller marquise diamonds actually make fingers look shorter.

Heart Shape

The heart shape diamond is considered the most romantic of all diamond cuts. Although widely recognized as a symbol of love and affection, the heart shape's historical origins point to a murky association with the most intimate parts of human anatomy.

Heart Shape Diamond

The heart shape given to a particular stone is not the diamond cutter's first choice. Whenever a pear shape cannot be fashioned from a piece of rough due to inclusion or a natural, it can be turned into a heart by cutting a cleft - an indentation that splits the rounded end of the stone into two lobes.

Very popular in Asia, but a little tacky for a Westerner. The ideal ratio for a heart shape is 1:1. The world's most famous heart shape diamond is The Blue Heart - a 30.62 carat fancy blue stone.

Don't have an account yet? Register Now!

Sign in to your account